Half marathon at the Louvre
Ready Set Art
My first full day in Paris
It's spring time in Paris, which similar to Florida means completely unpredictable rain. In its manic episodes, the sky opens with gusto, making the local vendors very profitable on their umbrella sales. Not a great place for ponchos, as the depressive state of the sky only likes to casually consider the idea of rain in a very existential way.
Since I have such a limited time here, I am only hitting the big points. For today that is The Louvre. So I arrive having pre-booked, saving quite the line at the main entrance in the variable weather conditions.
Having been soaked and freezing in Budapest, I did not subject my camera to the same risk of my laissez-faire lack of umbrella approach to tourism. So it's an i-phone journalism kind of day.
Going in, down, to get to go up.
The Louvre has of course a great deal of very important pieces of art, I'll walk you through some of my favorites. However, the building itself was also very distracting. Which is not helpful when you are trying to see all of the things but a pleasant ambiance nonetheless.
Now, on to the Art.
There is no way to describe the feat of walking though this museum. Beyond the fact that by the end of the day I had actually walked close to 13 miles. Also, the fact that the museum splurged and uses Nintendo 3-D players for their audio guides, I am convinced solely to less the amount of lost tourists as they had a very helpful location service I found myself using often.
The frozen history
Artemis with a Doe
This museum has a very very comprehensive statue collection. I found much more of my time disappearing in the eyes of those that do not see then I would of thought prior to my visit.
Some of the heavy hitters, pun intended.
Venus
I'm not actually sure how I got this shot without people in it, this statue was pretty constantly surrounded. Being near this piece in person allowed me to finally do what many have done over the years and imagine the statue in it's full glory. That is perhaps why now over time, it has remained such an icon. What it lacks due to damage, it gives like a dialogue of possibility.
Lesser known, Venus preparing Mars for battle. It captured a moment, an interaction, and a feeling within two figures in such a simple but impossible way.
The Winged Victory
At the top of the staircase, this statue I could of practically spent the day with. The amount of movement and life in this piece is clear in the photograph but felt in person. This is one of the only pieces I let myself sit and use precious time to really take in.
Cupid's kiss was a surprise to me.
It is not a statue I knew much about, but by far was one of my favorite from the entire day. This is the moment where Cupid is literally kissing his lover back to life, the full story is even carved into the details from behind like his arrows and potion vase. It calls for the viewer to continue to encircle it, being completely wrapped up into the moment
Let's throw in some paintings, here are three I really enjoyed despite their lack of crowd winning approval
And of course, the biggest crowd draw
Just to get this close took a lot of determination and less than southern hospitable shoving. I would say she enjoys the attention though.
It was quite the day to be had, only leaving because I was walking a very dangerous lack of nutrition line that I did not want to cross.
So the rest of my first day I spent outside enjoying the sun and the view when I could get them
And the walks in the rain through the iconic streets
It was yet again, a very full, but rewarding day of exploration. Including a dinner in a little streetside cafe blanc where I enjoyed listening in on a french couple who were less then thrilled that I was not speaking french. The waiter actually told them basically "I'm sorry" or "excuse me" every time he used English with me. Fascinating and entertaining. Most importantly, the food was amazing, more rewarding yet was the couple that sat down next to me when I was concluding my meal. I ended up staying and talking to the charming pair for about an hour. They were inquisitive, authenticate, and the perfect conclusion to my day.
With my socks hung out to dry, a prayer for sleep
I will say Bon Nuit!
Bonjour!
It feels a lot like one very long day
When does a day even really begin?
If it's when you wake up, then my day started and stopped all across Italy, Switzerland, and France. The TGV was another experience of it's own. The view may be no different from first to second class, but the luck of the draw seating might have been worth the set back. Not that my travel companion for the day wasn't nice. All 60 of so pictures of him on the Alps were in fact very nice. Fitting together in the seats, not as nice. But a truly tired traveler makes for a great napper.
Since you might of gathered that I am not in fact on a night train, the one plus side to a day time expedition were some great mountain views. Switzerland, I'm hiking you next. With proper shoes.
The biggest take away from this journey was probably the difference in the general tension. Being in Europe since the attacks, particularly in regards to travel, it just feels intense. And it's not just my paranoid American self. I watched as one man was taken off the train by police. More fun yet was to be had as at one point a man left a bag after just getting on the train and the disappearing. I watched as other travelers did the same little check to make sure he was still on board. I did not sleep much after that, heart in my throat, travel companion basically in my lap.
Alas! We arrive in PARIS
I booked a cozy little place in the Opera district via Airbnb and it took almost everything in me not to instantly sleep.
Food first, a good rule of thumb.
So to resume the more pleasant side of my journey, I will visually walk you through the fanciest meal of my trip. Good contrast to the last twenty four hours.
Welcome to the
Brasserie Julien
These are cell phone pictures, and I was basically drunk with tire. Je m'excuse.
Alors!
TINY Tables. So close in fact, they pull the table out just to sit you down. The waitress worked with my broken french and although the service was slow, it was enjoyable in that I received fantastic food and I don't really enjoy the small talk anyways.
To begin!
The real thing: French Onion Soup
The only regret here is that there is no way to eat this in a classy manor. The cheese gets everywhere, just like God intended.
Not as salted as American look a-likes. Certainly brought me back to life.
The main course!
Sea bass with a mushroom risotto
They were even nice enough to save my weak american stomach and pre-cut the head off. No guilt served here.
At this point I'm stuffed, but we must carry on!
The Finale!
Creme BRULEE
Literally Brulee
Not as sweet as the American counter part, making it even lighter and next to perfection to one very happy, very full traveler.
It was a treat of it's own to watch the place fill up and chaotically run its course. I think the waitress was surprised I left her a happy extra tip (yes, I am aware it's included as a service charge in Europe), but they really earn it here. Again, not so much for the talking, more so for the staying afloat.
Now for a real bed and a hard sleep.
Tomorrow, adventure is out there!
One more day in Paradise, One night in quite the opposite
The gray skies rolled away in the night and I woke up to a bright and ready blue morning
Some places in the Cinque Terre you can book ahead of time online. They are hard to find, trust me. Air bnb opened a few more options but most places are found simply by wandering the streets and looking for rooms open signs. Being the type A that I am, I did not like this quite as much and managed to book via email with the one place I could find in Vernazza on the Interwebs. The leap of faith proved rewarding, clearly.
Quite a view to wake up to
Last night I also ate in the little dinner place that the runs the rooms they rent out. Stuffed mussels, a plate of meat, a full basket of bread, and a 1.5 liter of water. I literally ate everything in front of me.
Which proved helpful today for the next hike.
But both we change towns, lets explore a tad more around Vernazza which is also known for it's petit, yet high perched castle.
Naturally, I found the strange little staircase deserving of the feature shot.
That little cylinder on the hill, that's what I'm inside.
Now, back down on the break water
A clear blue sky, bright sun, and off far away in the distance, our next destination.
So pack up your bag
Grab a model citizen cat
And we are off!
Hiking today, a Saturday, came with a little more local traffic but no less views. Including some tucked away little treasures worth taking the shoes off and romping around a bit
Oh and about those cats, the people love them too. So much so, they created a little safe haven for them on the mountain.
I am convinced I actually found cat heaven.
And you know how Italian's love their football? Well why not hike on a trail through the mountains with your favorite ball. Just a little passing around the switchbacks, fun?
No?
Risk your life to retrieve said ball, of course!
Featuring, one arguably good dad
Thankfully, I left early. The wait just to hike going the other direction was longer that trying to get on Test Track in Epcot in July.
So we arrive in...
Monterosso al Mare
This town was probably the best way for me to end my journey because to me, it felt the most tourist. Had I hiked the opposite direction, I am convinced nothing could of pried me off its walls.
This town has the big beach and also is really the only flat town therefore the most public ready. I say this like a real Cinque snob I suppose because it was still a sight to behold full of its own little flares.
To finish out my Cinque Terre exploration, I choose to honor the day with a meal in the honor of and in great gratitude of my friend Delayne who would not let me leave Florida without promising to eat pasta.
And I did, and it was gooooood
So concludes my fun in the mountains and by the sea of Italy. This trip has allowed me to feel life again in a way that only true adventure can.
The second half of my day was a different experience all together.
I was a tad nervous but excited to board a night train to Paris. Perhaps my nervous energy was so compelling my first train (that I was safely two hours early for) to try and compensate and pull into Milan 25 minutes late, 10 minutes to late for my 11:15 train for the evening.
The train station also had just enough wifi to get through a few panic texts but no internet to be had for the researching. So relying on others web connected eyes, we worked out that the best course of action was probably to wait it out till the earliest 10 hour train out in the morning.
Let me introduce you to CHEZ KIT OF MILAN
I am actually quite proud of my little corner, it took awhile to find. The elegant marble really proved to be the fanciest of ice box beds for the night. A few hours restless hours later, I was thankfully heading out of Milan towards Paris.
The experience in the moment was not a pleasurable one in the slightest. I do feel however that it allowed a great contrast to the amazing experiences I've had up onto this point. As well as another humbling moment of insight into the lives that a great deal of people have to bare.
I am blessed to say the least
Now, off to PARIS
Walk with me
This was a day for hiking.
Backpacking across the countryside, yes
Backpacking in the city, yes
Backpacking while trying to fit into a tiny gelato store, yes
Today had it all and then some. It was a cool, grey day outside. Maybe the pictures have less of that high dynamic range without editing but my face also has much less sun burning. So it's a fair trade.
My first hope was to hike through all the towns. Sadly, the first two coastal pathways were closed, the more famous ones, also the shorter ones haha! So, I still got plenty of walking in. Added by the actual exploration of the towns and it was a very long day.
Hello Manarola!
This is the smallest of the five towns, known for being much less interesting. However in hindsight, I think I will stay in this town next time to get the photographic night advantage because in my opinion this add some of the best flare even for being so tiny.
And great locals
The cats of the Cinque Terre will be my next adventure I think. One even took over my lap as I was trying to make this post at night sitting in a little indoor\outdoor lobby.
But back to town. This town has a vineyard walk, a hike within itself
The Cinque Terre produces its own wine, oranges, and lemons. The groves along the mountain side were a favorite of mine.
This little walk led me all the way around to one "swimming spot" better titled as the tourist make out spot. While an Italian couple enjoyed each other's faces,
I enjoyed the crashing water views
More so, from this spot you can see where my hike leads to. That little cluster of houses up to the left in the mountains, thats a short train ride away. That tiny speck of lighter yellow in the top left corner. That's where I'm hiking to today.
But before we leave, this was the highlight of my day view wise
The water was pure, the town bright, and my heart was lighter than its been before.
On to the next town. Tucked in the mountains, Corniglia is the only town the doesn't on the sea level. Which means about 385 steps just to get into town.
Which means, my first stop was here
Gelato made from local honey is hard to beat.
Refreshed, the walking around town was much easier to enjoy the details. For example, everyone's laundry out to dry in the warm sun tucked behind the clouds.
I even hiked down to what used to be the coast of this tiny city
And found some more detail to appercaite
Beyond the colors and the location, the Cinque Terre also had a way of feeling real, tactile. Gritty, it is a place that shows the labor that goes into keeping it alive, the pulse is in the very stonework.
Now for the hiking hiking which was quite challenging. Up's and down's, stairs and rocks, tourist and tight walkways
R
ewarding however
I carried my camera on my chest strap, and my water by my shoulders and hiked for about two very difficult but worth while hours to...
Vernazza
This city stop was bursting with life, from the kids playing in the streets to the loud fishermen pulling in their boats
Honestly, my favorite part of this town was the platter of meats I choose for dinner but I was a tad biased from lack of nutrition.
The views are probably the majorities highlight.
Waiting for the sun to set, I even had time to play with a filter
One more hike to go tomorrow, one more town to see, then it's off to Paris!
Cinque Uno
Get ready for a real culture shock
I thought I was prepared. I was not.
Leaving Florence was not easy. I got my last 1.20 E espresso at my favorite little local bar, knocking over locals with my increasingly huge pack and was on my way. The trains, also not the most simple. Thankfully there are young Italians literally waiting on the trains for lost tourist, there to bustle you over to validate your ticket, run back in a panic, and reseat you in a tram where there is no assigned seating. All for a lovely "donation" for a service you didn't really know you were asking for. So even being preyed upon, I still learned a lot on my way out to La Spezia. Rolling past Pisa, the entire territory starts to change. Mountains. Not the space or thunder kind I'm used to. Epic and breathtaking mountains to your right, vast open beaconing sea to your left.
Paradise is real
Welcome to Riomaggiore
The first of the five towns making up the Cinque Terre. For day one, this is the only town I focused on and I'm glad I did.
Let's back up, when you get off the people sausage press aka, the train, you can go up and over the city, which of course I did. Or under the tunnel. Both are rewarding
Local art is everywhere
Turning towards the harbor, you start to notice everyone's calves. These towns are literally carved into the mountain. The chiseling equally applicable to the townsfolk.
To the harbor!
Seeing how it is March, this little oasis is more in the in between stages between down season and a summer harbor oasis for Italians. I found the weather perfect for the trekking, cold for the sleeping, and a little too real for swimming. But, that's not to say local's don't. It was a bright and sunny day and as my air b&b host forcefully suggested, GO OUTSIDE. I climbed rocks. They tan on the rocks.
Welcome to the Cinque Terre beaches
Now the last town has sand but honestly people were out on these rocks having a day of it.
I did more rock jumping which proved rewarding
And as the night sets in, the colors come out.
I went out on the break wall to get these next shots. It was slippery, loud, and probably pretty dangerous. Good thing two very drunk, 21'st birthday, American girls were in the there to slip on some rocks and provide entertainment. They very much wanted me to come have drinks with them, I very much wanted to stay to get these shots
Zero editing or enhancements, just a lens, a cold Kit, and a perfect little Paradise.
Tomorrow is a day for hiking! So tonight was a night for the best pasta with fresh mussels. Happy, happy, so very happy.